A brief history of instant coffee

Instant coffee seems unremarkable. It’s just powder and hot water. But making it work took decades.

The convenience of instant coffee masks a surprisingly difficult problem. Coffee’s appeal lies in the hundreds of volatile compounds that create its flavor and aroma, exactly the substances most likely to disappear during processing. Creating instant coffee required developing techniques to extract the soluble molecules in coffee from the insoluble plant matter without destroying the fragile compounds that make coffee worth drinking.

The first attempt at the drink was, by all accounts, terrible. In 1771, over two centuries after coffee reached Europe, Londoner John Dring filed a patent for a ‘coffee compound’. Dring’s method involved mixing ground coffee with butter and tallow, then heating the mixture on an iron plate until it thickened into a paste that could be shaped into cakes. These cakes were then dissolved in hot water to make coffee. The purpose of the animal fats isn’t entirely clear. They may have been intended to extract and carry soluble compounds from the coffee grounds or to preserve the ground coffee from oxidation. Whatever Dring’s aim, the method wasn’t commercially viable because the fats went rancid, causing the cakes to spoil quickly.

During the mid-1800s, several firms produced instant coffees as thick liquid concentrates that could be reconstituted with water. In 1840, the Scottish company T & H Smith developed a ‘coffee essence’ by brewing coffee and reducing it to around a quarter of its original volume. This thick liquid was mixed with chicory extract and burnt sugar syrup, creating a molasses-like concentrate. One or two teaspoons mixed with boiling water made a drink, though it tasted more like coffee flavored molasses than proper coffee.

Another attempt came during the American Civil War. In 1832, President Andrew Jackson had replaced soldiers’ daily spirit rations with coffee beans and sugar. This created a heavy logistical burden for the army, with a 20-day supply for 100,000 troops weighing 250 tons, all needing transport by horse-drawn wagon. Roasting, grinding, and brewing coffee in the field was also time-consuming for soldiers.

In 1861, the Union Army began investigating instant coffee as a solution. They procured a coffee concentrate from the firm HA Tilden & Co, consisting of a mixture of thickened coffee and sweetened, condensed milk. This halved the weight and size of the coffee, but was unpopular with soldiers, who compared its consistency to axle grease.

These essences were made by boiling down brewed coffee to concentrate it. This damages the flavor, producing a bitter, unpleasant drink, hence the old saying that ‘coffee boiled is coffee spoiled’. That’s why they were syrups. Boiling away all the water to create a dry powder would have destroyed whatever coffee flavor remained. To make a viable instant coffee powder, producers needed a way to remove the water from brewed coffee without boiling it.

A spice merchant’s solution

The first genuine instant coffee powder emerged in 1889, created by David Strang, a spice merchant in Invercargill, New Zealand. He developed a ‘Dry Hot-Air’ method that removed water from coffee by blowing heated air over it, likely using a spice dryer he’d patented a few years earlier. While hot air dehydration had been used in France since 1795 to dehydrate foods like pasta for commercial sale, Strang was the first to apply it to coffee.

The method works by warming the air around the coffee rather than the coffee itself. Turning water into vapor requires energy, which evaporating water draws from the heated air passing over it. Because this energy comes from the air rather than the liquid, the coffee surface actually gets cooler as it evaporates. This keeps the liquid below boiling temperature even as it dries.

As a dry powder, it was lighter and more shelf-stable than previous attempts at instant coffee, making it more practical for shipping and storage. The product achieved modest commercial success in New Zealand, being advertised as ‘Far superior to any so-called coffee essence’. But the taste was still far from ideal, coffee expert Arjun Haszard notes: ‘This process, given what we know about what happens to coffee with heat and air would have undoubtedly resulted in heat damaged, oxidized coffee. Portable, yes, but also most likely horrible’.

George Washington goes to war

The first instant coffee to achieve widespread commercial success came in 1909 when Belgian-British inventor George Constant Louis Washington launched Red E Coffee. Washington kept his method a trade secret, so the exact process remains unknown, but the result wasn’t clearly superior to previous attempts, with the taste described as ‘disagreeable’. Washington’s success seems to have come mainly from being the first to build an industrial-scale production facility, located at Brooklyn’s Bush Terminal industrial complex.

The coffee was fairly popular in its first few years of production, but demand surged when World War I began. The military procured the entire available production, which peaked at 37,000 pounds (16.7 metric tons) per day. Despite the poor taste, the sheer convenience of instant coffee provided a significant morale boost to the troops. One soldier’s letter home captures this sentiment:

I am very happy despite the rats, the rain, the mud, the draughts, the roar of the cannon and the scream of shells. It takes only a minute to light my little oil heater and make some George Washington Coffee . . . Every night I offer up a special petition to the health and well-being of Mr. Washington.

By the end of the war, the American army was being called the best-fed on Earth. Instant coffee rations, no doubt, were an enviable luxury.

Solving the sticky problem

In 1929, the Wall Street Crash devastated Brazil’s economy. Brazil relied heavily on coffee exports, which made up half of its total exports, and the US was its biggest customer. Coffee prices collapsed 90 percent within a year, contributing to the 1930 revolution that overthrew the government. To stabilize prices, the Brazilian government burned 10.3 billion pounds (4.6 million metric tons) of coffee over multiple years. This was the equivalent of three years’ worth of global coffee production. A 1937 Time article described the scene: ‘huge grey-green piles of coffee beans smouldering slowly away under great smoke plumes, barges lumbering out to sea to dump coffee overboard, workmen mixing coffee and tar into briquets for building’.

During the crisis, Banque Française et Italienne pour l’Amérique du Sud, the French and Italian Bank for South America, found itself with a huge surplus of coffee in its warehouses. To find a use for the excess beans, they approached Nestlé chairman Louis Dapples, a former employee of the bank, with a proposal to develop a better instant coffee product. Swiss chemist Max Morgenthaler was put in charge of the project in 1932, but with no signs of success, Nestlé cut funding for it in 1935. Undeterred, Morgenthaler purchased his own coffee beans and continued his research from home, occasionally using equipment from the factory laboratory during quiet periods. In April 1937, he achieved a breakthrough and presented samples to Nestlé’s executive board. They were well received. One attendee exclaimed, ‘Mother Nestlé has produced a beautiful baby!’

Morgenthaler’s process involved passing hot water through multiple columns of ground coffee to create a coffee extract, which was then spray dried. Spray drying is a technique invented by chemist Samuel Percy in 1872 for converting liquid into powder. It works by spraying liquid as a fine mist into a heated chamber, where hot air rapidly evaporates the water, turning the droplets into powder.

Spray drying had been successfully used to make milk powder since the early 1900s, but applying it to coffee was difficult.